Hi zach here sorry for not being able to post I was enjoyng myself in sanfransisco, calafornia well a mater of fact I’m still there. Well this is how to tell if a cards good:

If it is balanced , they tend to go by a standard like this: (I found this out for only creatures for now)

-If the power/toughness is 1/1 it would cost (1), and so on for the power and toughness, and if the creature is like a 1/3 balance it out that makes a 2/2. or if the creature is a 3/7 that makes a 5/5 or if it is a 1/4 that would be a 2/3 then count that as either (3) mana or (4) mana if it counts as 3 then it is good (excluding no other effects) and if it is 4 it is usually bad (excluding other effects)

If a creature power/toughness is 1/1 and it has another effect it usually costs (2) FOR JUST THE POWER/TOUGHNESS

-For each effect like a named effect- flying, trample, first strick, devour, ect… it will add (1) to the converted mana cost.

-If the creature has a mixed effect like- all creatures get +1/+1, when this comes into play destroy all creatures, when this creature attacks target creature losses flying, ect… thies will usually add (2) per mana cost.

-If the creature costs multiple mana it usually costs (1) less per extra mana, (1) colorless.

-If the creature has a negetive effect like: When this comes into play sacrifice a land, when this comes into play discard a card, whenever a player plays a spell or an ability on this creature sacrifice it, ect… The creature will cost (2) less mana.

This is usually how so a 3/3 for (4) would be normal and a 3/3 for (4) with flying is a good card and a 3/3 for (5) would be bad and ect,

Now to tell if a creature is good for standard is if it fits into the both the blocks that are in standard now a card would be good for both the shards of alara block and the morningtide/shadowmoor blocks.

Another way to show if a card would be good it would be good in any deck not just in a specific few.  Like banefire works for almost any deck while progenitus would only be good in a deck made for it.

A card would be bad if it can only be used in a deck that works for that card.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Now to tell if a card would cost alot is if it is good for one, using the balance method

It would cost something If it works in standard, otherwise it wont cost too much

If it has high power and toughness. ALOT of noobs like cards that are just sheer power no matter if it costs 1000000 to play they will put it into thier deck. usually something that has high power and toughness is 6/6 or higher.

If a card is good in a combo it would cost more or if the card is good in a set (usually 5) it would cost alot like the scarab set.

–That is all this has worked for me but you are not limited to this if something else has worked for you please let me know by e-mail czmtgblog@gmail.com or post a comment… which is hopefully a few lines below this last sentance.

It now looks like there is not going to be online sales for From the Vault: Exiled. Wizards has released a press relese saying that it’s only in retail stores. What does this mean? Unless your store accepts preorders, you’re going to have to be there on the release date to get a copy at $35. Ebay will have some copies, but it will most likely cost much more than $35.

There is a way for card dealers to find out what cards are in a pack. Some people might know about it already, but for those who don’t, never buy a single pack except in a store. People who sell cards online might chose the packs out of the box that have the good cards, sell the rest online, and make a profin off of it. Dealers who sell packs at events or on the street are even more likely to do this. If you do want to buy packs online, you can only be sure it’s safe if it’s a website that corresponds to an actual store. If any store takes the good packs, and gets caught, they could probably be reported. Stores are most likely safe. Also, packs at the prerelease or release party will probably be fine, no matter where they’re from. If you do want to buy packs from online stores, buy them from sealed boxes. Either buy a fat pack, a booster box, singles, a tournament pack (if you can find one for the set), or in the store. Fat packs and booster boxes are sealed, so they will be fine. Singles are singles, and there’s nothing to do to them. Packs in stores should be fine, but unless you’ve seen the booster box unsealed, there’s no guarentee. If you do find your store owner cheating, contact Wizards. The worst of the worst will take the good packs and use them in booster drafts, while giving everyone else bad packs. If anyone cheats in a tournament, they can definatly get in big trouble. If you suspect someone of cheating, either in a tournament or a store owner selling packs, contact Wizards. (Note: This does not mean that if you never get a mythic rare, it’s cheating. You only have a 1/8 chance of getting a mythic, so if each individual booster doesn’t have a mythic, it’s probably just bad luck. If you almost always get terrible rares, and you always buy packs from the same person, you might be onto something. Especially if you then buy a fat pack or boosters from someone else and you get good luck)